Residential sewer lateral lining in Jurupa Valley

Three kinds of lateral, three ways to fail

Walk down an older Jurupa Valley street and you can roughly date the sewer laterals by the houses. The pre-1970s homes drain through vitrified clay laid in three- and four-foot lengths; the joints were sealed with mortar or a rubber ring, and after fifty years of Riverside County clay soil swelling and shrinking under them, those joints have opened. Under the house, the same era used cast iron, which rusts from the bottom of the pipe upward until the invert is gone and the pipe is a channel instead of a tube. Houses from about 1980 onward used ABS plastic, which neither roots nor rust can touch, but which cracks where a slab settled, bellies where backfill was poor, and pulls apart at a glued joint when the ground shifts. Every one of those failures shows up on a camera, and every one of them has a no-dig fix.

What the homeowner owns

In Riverside County the property owner is responsible for the lateral from the house all the way to the connection at the city main, including the stretch under the sidewalk and the street. That is the part of the line a trench would make expensive: an encroachment permit, traffic control, trench plates, compaction tests and a paving patch, all for a few feet of pipe. Lining runs the new pipe from the cleanout to the main in one pass, so the right-of-way is never opened. residential trenchless sewer repair in Jurupa Valley shows how that works on a typical lot.

How the day goes

The crew arrives with a camera, a jetter and the liner. The camera goes in first and the defects are located and marked on the ground with their depth. The jetter cleans the line to bare pipe wall, cutting out roots and scale. Then the liner, a felt or fiberglass tube saturated with resin, is pulled or inverted into the pipe, pressed to the wall with air or water, and cured with hot water, steam or UV light. Two to four hours later it is a hard, jointless pipe inside the old one. Lateral reinstatement opens any branch connections from inside, the camera goes back in to record the finished pipe, and the drains are back in service. the inspection-to-cure sequence lays out each of those steps in the order they happen.

Under the slab and under the yard

Slab homes are where lining matters most. The old fix for corroded cast iron under a slab was to saw-cut the floor, break out the concrete, dig, replace, pour and re-tile; it took a week and left the house a construction site. A liner cures inside that cast iron from a cleanout or a pulled toilet, with the floor untouched. The same is true of a lateral under a driveway, a pool deck or mature citrus: the pipe is rebuilt, the surface is not.

When bursting replaces the line

A pipe that has collapsed, flattened or bellied so badly that it holds standing water cannot host a liner. Pipe bursting is the no-dig answer for those: a bursting head pulled through the old line from a small pit at each end splits it apart while new HDPE pipe follows, and the yard between the pits stays intact. It is also the method for upsizing an undersized lateral. A good proposal states which method it is based on and why the camera footage calls for it.

What to ask for

Before you sign, ask for the pre-inspection video, the method and why, the liner or pipe material and its rated service life, the warranty in writing, the permit plan, and whether the crew doing the work is the company you hired. After the job, keep the post-repair video and the warranty with the house papers; they answer the question the next buyer's inspector will ask. The installer standards the network uses are described at guide to CIPP liner installation.

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